Vitamin C has become a key component of many cosmetic products. It is one of the most powerful antioxidants in the skin and has a number of benefits such as brightening, collagen production, and protection against environmental damage. The growing popularity of vitamin C in skincare has led to the development of various forms and derivatives, each designed to support the skin’s natural regeneration process and protect and repair skin cells exposed to everyday environmental stressors.

However, not all types of vitamin C are the same. With so many skincare products featuring this potent ingredient, it is essential to understand the difference between the different forms of vitamin C and choose what works best for you. Knowing the benefits of vitamin C for the skin and the various forms it takes will help you select the most suitable products for your skin needs.

 

Vitamin C and Its Skin Benefits

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that offers numerous benefits for overall health, including promoting youthful and radiant skin. As a collagen booster and skin brightener, vitamin C is commonly found in anti-aging skincare products.

Clinical studies have shown that vitamin C can improve the appearance of wrinkles. Daily use of a vitamin C formulation for at least three months has been found to reduce fine and coarse wrinkles on the face and neck, as well as enhance overall skin texture and appearance.

Vitamin C can also help protect the skin from harmful ultraviolet rays when used in combination with a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Studies have demonstrated that combining vitamin C with other topical ingredients, such as ferulic acid and vitamin E, can reduce redness and protect the skin from long-term damage caused by UV rays.

Additionally, vitamin C can reduce the appearance of dark spots by inhibiting the production of pigment in the skin. Clinical trials have shown that most participants using topical vitamin C experienced improvement in their dark spots with minimal irritation or side effects. However, more studies are needed to confirm vitamin C’s brightening effects.

Moreover, topical vitamin C can help with acne due to its anti-inflammatory properties that control sebum (oil) production in the skin. Clinical trials have indicated that twice-daily application of vitamin C reduced acne lesions compared to a placebo. While no serious side effects were reported, more clinical trials are necessary to confirm these findings.

 

Different Forms of Vitamin C

1. L-Ascorbic Acid

L-Ascorbic Acid is the most potent and well-researched form of vitamin C, naturally derived from fruits and vegetables. It is highly effective in penetrating the skin but is unstable and prone to oxidation.

2. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable, water-soluble synthetic derivative of vitamin C. It offers moderate to high efficacy and is well-suited for neutral to slightly acidic formulations.

3. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is another stable, water-soluble synthetic derivative. It provides moderate to high efficacy and is compatible with various skincare formulations.

4. Ascorbyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable form of vitamin C that is partially plant-derived and partially synthetic. It offers moderate efficacy and is suitable for neutral pH formulations.

5. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a highly stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C that can be derived from plant sources or synthesised (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate we use is naturally-derived from palm oil). It provides high efficacy and excellent absorption, making it suitable for various skincare products.

6. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA)

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a highly stable, oil-soluble synthetic derivative of vitamin C. It offers high efficacy, low oxidation potential, and is well-suited for neutral pH formulations.

7. Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble synthetic derivative of vitamin C. It is moderately effective and stable, making it a good option for formulations requiring a neutral pH.

8. Sodium Ascorbate

Sodium Ascorbate is a synthetic derivative used in some vitamin C masks and treatments. It offers moderate stability and efficacy, and is compatible with neutral pH formulations.

9. Calcium Ascorbate

Calcium Ascorbate is another synthetic derivative of vitamin C used in various skincare products. It provides moderate stability and efficacy, and is suitable for neutral pH formulations.

10. Ascorbyl di-palmitate

Ascorbyl di-palmitate is an oil-soluble form of vitamin C considered highly effective for addressing photoaging and pigmentation issues. It offers high stability and efficacy, with excellent absorption and low irritation potential.

 

Below is a detailed comparison of the various forms of vitamin C used in skincare products. 

Form of Vitamin C	Stability	Source	Efficacy	pH Level Compatibility	Formulation Compatibility	Oxidation Potential	Skin Sensitivity	Absorption Rate	Concentration Required	Shelf Life
L-Ascorbic Acid	Low	Natural, but often produced synthetically	High	Low	Moderate	High	Can be irritating, especially for sensitive skin	High	Typically 10-20% for optimal effects	Short
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate	High	Synthetic	Moderate to high	Neutral to slightly acidic	High	Low	Gentle, suitable for sensitive skin	Moderate	Typically 1-5%	Long
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate	High	Synthetic	Moderate to high	Neutral to slightly acidic	High	Low	Gentle, suitable for sensitive skin	Moderate	Typically 1-5%	Long
Ascorbyl Glucoside	High	Plant-derived + synthetic	Moderate	Neutral	High	Low	Gentle, suitable for sensitive skin	Moderate	Typically 1-5%	Long
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate	Very high	Plant-derived from palm oil or synthetic	High	Neutral	High	Very low	Gentle, suitable for sensitive skin	High	Typically 1-5%	Very long
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA)	Very high	Synthetic	High	Neutral	High	Very low	Gentle, suitable for sensitive skin	High	Typically 1-5%	Very long
Ascorbyl Palmitate	High	Plant-derived from palm oil or synthetic	Moderate	Neutral	High	Low	Gentle, suitable for sensitive skin	Moderate	Moderate	Long
Sodium Ascorbate	Moderate	Synthetic	Moderate	Neutral	Moderate	Moderate	Gentle, suitable for sensitive skin	Moderate	Moderate	Moderate
Calcium Ascorbate	Moderate	Synthetic	Moderate	Neutral	Moderate	Moderate	Gentle, suitable for sensitive skin	Moderate	Moderate	Moderate
Ascorbyl di-palmitate	High	Synthetic	High	Neutral	High	Low	Gentle, suitable for sensitive skin	High	Low to moderate	Long

 

 

Carol Priest's Pick: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 

The Vitamin C we use for our products is Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, which stands out due to its exceptional stability and high efficacy. Unlike many other forms of Vitamin C, it is oil-soluble, which allows it to penetrate the skin more deeply and efficiently. It is also highly stable, resisting oxidation and degradation even when exposed to light and air, which ensures that it remains effective over a longer period. In fact, our Vitamin C serum is preservative-free!

Additionally, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is gentle, non-irritating, and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It won't strip your skin off nor give you a tingling sensation. Its ability to provide potent antioxidant protection, stimulate collagen production, and brighten the skin with minimal irritation.

 

Discover the power of our Rosehip & Vitamin C Regenerative Serum, a potent blend that combines Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (Vitamin C) with its best friend, Vitamin E, along with Ceramides, Hyaluronic Acid, and 73.61% organic botanicals including Rosehip CO2 Extract. This serum will do everything for your skin, from brightening to smoothing, hydrating, firming, and protecting. Experience the difference and give your skin the care it deserves.

 

References

https://jcadonline.com/topical-vitamin-c-and-the-skin-mechanisms-of-action-and-clinical-applications/

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3673383/

https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/why-is-topical-vitamin-c-important-for-skin-health-202111102635

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5579659/